Outdoor Safety for Climbers and Scramblers
It's easy to get into trouble outdoors. As one of the busiest volunteer rescue teams in the country, outdoor safety education is a significant part of our mission. Learn how to stay safe when climbing, scrambling or otherwise enjoying all that Boulder County has to offer below.
Before you go
Know your ability. Choose climbs that are within your ability, and seek further instruction if you’ve never climbed outside before. Be aware that scrambling without a rope always carries risk regardless of how easy the climbing may be.
Tell someone where you’re going, what route you’re climbing and when you’ll be back.
Pack for safety. Always bring extra layers, water, and a light source.
Check the forecast. Avoid being on the rock in summer afternoons, when thunderstorms are likely to form.
Plan your route and your exit. Familiarize yourself with the route you’re planning to climb, and identify options for bailing out. Always confirm your rope is long enough for the planned climb, and know whether the climb has a walk-off exit, or requires rappelling.
Know how to self rescue. Safety is your responsibility– seek further instruction on basic self-rescue techniques, and practice them often to keep the skills fresh.
While you are out
Wear a helmet. In the event of a big fall or rockfall from above, a helmet can save your life.
Tie knots at the ends of your rappel line. This is especially important if you can’t see your rope reach the ground.
Communicate carefully. Agree on commands before starting to climb, and consider the impact that wind may have on your ability to hear your partner.
If you run into problems
Stay calm. Stop and take a few deep breaths. Think, evaluate your options, and make a plan.
Call for help early. Call 911 if you have cell service. Some counties, including Boulder County, have Text-to-911, which may be more effective if you have poor signal. Having a satellite communication device may be a good idea if you will be somewhere with limited/no cell phone service. RMRG and fellow volunteer professional mountain search and rescue groups do not charge for rescue in Colorado, and a rescue may be more effective if requested early.
If you’re stranded, stay put. Stay in a safe place where you can hear rescuers calling and make yourself visible.
Be patient. Be aware that it could take some time for rescuers to reach you.
REQUEST A SAFETY EDUCATION PRESENTATION
RMRG presents free safety education to Boulder area groups on request, typically 20 to 30 per year. Please contact Emmi Laakso, Safety Education Committee chair person, at contact@rockymountainrescue.org for more information on RMRG's safety education programs or to request a presentation.
Additional Resources
Accident Reports & Analysis
WARNING: Contains Graphic Images from minutes 38-44.
One of the benefits of being part of a search and rescue team, particularly one so close to a lot of climbing activity, it that you get to learn from the lessons of others mistakes. Rocky Mountain Rescue members Dan Lack and Alison Sheets will share some of these important lessons from the last 15 years of climbing accidents in Boulder County. This discussion, based on a paper published in 2012), will outline the simplest climbing accident prevention measures and dispel some of the myths on what causes climbing accidents. The discussion will also provide some valuable insights on making an assessment, if an accident occurs, of whether you should call for organized rescue, and if you do, what you can do to tip the scales to a better outcome. Thursday, March 28, 2013 at 8pm- With Daniel Lack
Rock Climbing Rescues: Causes, Injuries, and Trends in Boulder County, Colorado Tells the by-the-numbers story of Boulder County climbing rescues from 1998-2011. Published: 2012 Wilderness Emergency Medicine Journal
Rock Climbing Rescues in Boulder County, Colorado and Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colorado, 1998 - 2011 A more visual presentation of the lessons learned in Eldorado Canyon State Park, one of North America's top climbing destinations.
Yellow Spur Fatal Rope Failure Investigation Detailed analysis of rope failure. June 22, 2010
Rescue of an injured climber off the Redguard Route, Eldorado Springs Canyon State Park, June 26, 2010:
Narrative description with photos of the rescue operation involving an unusually long cliff evacuation.
Rescue of injured climber, Eldorado Springs Canyon State Park: April 27, 2008:
Narrative description with photos of a complex rescue of an injured climber from a mid-cliff ledge.
“14-Years of rescue data reveals 20% of all accidents could have been prevented by better belay practices such as tying a knot in the end of the rope or wearing belay gloves. Anchors rarely fail (2.5% of accidents) and when they do, it’s because of inexperienced setup.”
Take away points for Eldorado Canyon State Park (ECSP) climbers:
Belay accidents, such as losing control of the belay, lowering and rappelling off the end of the rope comprise 20% of all climbing accidents.
ECSP has a higher instance of lost climbers, who request assistance in the later hours of the day (8pm - 1am), than other areas of Boulder County. Lack of knowledge of rappel anchors or down-climbs, and lack of preparation for nightfall are common reasons for this. Know your route and bring a headlamp.
ECSP has a higher instance of climbers stuck on rappel, often due to ropes being caught in the structured terrain.
ECSP has a higher instance of lead climbing accidents and a much lower incidence of un-roped climbing accidents than the rest of Boulder County.
Climbing fatalities in ECSP result primarily from lead falls, lowering off ropes and rock fall.